Véronique Nichanian staged her final menswear collection for Hermès on Saturday in Paris, bringing to a close a run that spanned almost 40 years. The 71-year-old designer headed the presentation at the Palais Brongniart during Paris Fashion Week and was preparing to relinquish creative control to Grace Wales Bonner, the young British designer announced by Hermès in October.
Before the show, R&B star Usher was seen speaking with Hermès executive chairman Axel Dumas, and the audience for the presentation was more star-filled than is typical for a house that is known for avoiding flashy marketing and celebrity ambassadors. The crowd included figures from fashion and entertainment who gave a warm reception when Nichanian returned to the runway at the close of the show.
The collection itself leaned on refined, muted tones and tactile materials. Models appeared in silk turtlenecks paired with leather trousers in a palette of navy blue, black and taupe. Outerwear incorporated details such as leather patches and shearling linings, while a shiny khaki crocodile-skin suit stood out among the looks.
Nichanian also revisited pieces from earlier points in her career, incorporating them into the lineup. Notable throwbacks included a navy leather suit with topstitched pinstripes from 2003 and a mocha calfskin jumpsuit dating to 1991. Brighter elements were introduced through jackets in orange and yellow, offering moments of contrast within the collection.
At the end of the show, Nichanian received a standing ovation. Members of the audience who joined in recognizing her work included designer Paul Smith, rapper Travis Scott and actors James McAvoy and Chace Crawford. The applause underscored the significance of the occasion for the house.
Grace Wales Bonner, who Hermès named to succeed Nichanian in October, will be the first Black woman to head a major fashion house. Her debut menswear collection for Hermès is scheduled for next January.
This presentation marked both a final chapter for Nichanian and a transition point for Hermès menswear, as the house prepares to introduce a new creative voice next year.